On Tours and Inspiration

Already, I have developed a bad habit of beginning posts and not finishing them. I have two from the past 6 days that I have started and failed to finish. Perhaps if I didn't write so much, I would not run out of time. Anyhow, here is the completed version of a post begun last Friday. Enjoy.

I cannot believe how action packed these first few days have been. The amount of sites we've seen, things we've done, and food we've eaten in less than a week mystifies my mind as I look back upon it. We have been busy; and yet, it is not the sort of busy-ness that propogates anxiety or tension (believe me, I know that sort of busy-ness well). Five days into this semester, I find myself more at peace internally than I have been in quite a while which I have no doubt is thanks to the many prayers and intercessions you have been sending up for me. I thank you from the bottom of my heart. Know that I will continue to need them, even moreso than in this first week, as we start classes and the initial high is replaced by the tedium of a weekly routine. It is in that routine where character will truly be tested and grace is needed more than ever. So keep those prayers coming. Know that I too will be praying for you.


I suppose I should recount to you the events of the weekend. Friday morning began with Thanos splitting the 25 students into 4 groups and appointing a leader to each group in charge of successfully navigating to the Colosseum by 9:45. I was placed under the able leadership of Shannon "Oh Captain, my Captain" Barr who more than up to the challenge. Our route took us through the Piazza del Popolo and on to the Spanish Steps, which were not nearly so crowded at 9 AM as they had been at 3PM the day before (strange...).

After crossing the Via del Tritone, we worked our way into the small piazza where lies the Trevi Fountain. I have to admit, I had read much about the fountain before leaving for Rome, but I was still extremely impressed with the Trevi Fountain the first time I stumbled upon it. It is big and beautiful and is justifiably one of Rome's greatest tourist attractions. Hopefully I will not fall prey to the contempt bred by familiarity as I pass Neptune and his winged horses each day on the way to class.


Those of you who have been on the Catholic Studies Rome semester will recognize that this is indeed the route to the Ang. We passed by it and continued down the Quirinal Hill to reach the Colosseum. For those who have not seen it, the Colosseum is big. In comparison with my favorite large, round building, the Metrodome, I would say that the Colosseum covers less ground area but it is taller. I had not read up on the history of the building before we began our trek and did not take time once we arrived to reflect on the incredible significance of the place without which it is really nothing more than a giant, crumbling bit of rock. I was impressed by the grandeur of the Colosseum, but maybe next time I'll have to watch Gladiator first.

Near the Colosseum, we were met by a young, Italian archaeologist who showed us around to a few churches near the Colosseum. We began at the Santo Stephano Rotondo, one of the only circular churches in Rome. S. Stephano is dedicated to the first Christian martyr (besides Christ). The role of martyrs in the early Church was a big one, as the Roman empire alternated between ignoring Christians and killing them. Those who were unlucky enough to find themselves in the reign of a less sympathetic emperor and lost their lives were venerated for their willingness to sacrifice everything, even their life, for God. The entire circumfrence of S. Stephano is painted with large murals of the early Christian martyrs beginning with Christ. Under the Church have recently been discovered the ruins of a 3rd Century temple of the Cult of Mithras. This cult was practiced in Rome primarily by soldiers from the Middle East stationed in a barracks on this hilltop. We were given special permission to go down into the 1800 year old temple. The cult venerated a man, Mithras, who was born out of a rock and went on to save mankind by, among other things, catching and sacrificing a bull by his own power. Wanting for bulls, the soldiers instead cut the heads off of chickens and we were able to see wells where the blood was to run into. A few fragile murals on the wall depict the sun and moon as the cycles of the day were very important to Mithraen worship. It was an interesting site to see, and being told a bit more about it made this crumbling pile of rocks carry much more significance than they otherwise might have.


Next we moved on to Quattro Coronati, a church dedicated to four unknown martyrs. When Constantine converted the Roman empire to Christianity, these four men converted. The subsequent emperor demanded the return of Pagan worship, and when these four refused, they were killed (note again, the importance of martyrs). The inside of the main chapel was beautiful, yet intimate. St. Peter's is also beautiful, but imposing. This church I could feel a bit more at home in. We were allowed to walk about the cloister (inner courtyard) of the Augustinian sisters who care for the church. After leaving the cloister, we spoke to a nun through a grate and exchanged a donation for a key through a barrel wheel (read: ancient lazy susan) which historically was used by women unable to care for their baby to pass the baby on to the nuns inside who would care for the child. Just a cool little story from our tour guide.

Our tour took us also to the foundations of the Temple of Claudius, but by this time many of us (or maybe just me) were needing a break. My lack of attention was apparent as I spent the short description of the temple wathcing men in a nearby part dressed up in superhero costumes shooting a scene for a movie. Finally, we broke and went our separate ways.

Shannon Barr, Jake Voekler, Anne Carepentier, and I were not in the mood to return to Bernardi, so we walked along the Roman Forum, ascended the Capitoline Hill, then went to dinner in Trastevere. There we had some good pasta and a friendly waitress who taught us the proper term for the bill "conto or bille" then crushed our spirits by bringing it to us (it was more than we had expected). We were to meet Fr. Carola at the Gregorian Univeristy at 4:00, so we made our way there with the intent to grab some gelato. It was my first gelato in Rome. Heavenly. For those who don't know, gelato is like ice cream blessed by an entire host of angels. Two scoops of two flavors is the standard portion; I decided upon Strawberry and Lemon (sorry Rachel). Magnifico!! Bellisimo!! What else can I say? It was wonderful. I have gone back many times since.


Gelato in hand, we met Fr. Carola and the rest of the group in front of the Greg and he took us to visit the Missionaries of Charity - the order of nuns founded by Blessed Mother Theresa of Calcutta. I do not hesitate to say that this has been the most profound experience of my time in Rome thus far. The MC's live in a home that exemplifies their intentional poverty. Two small shanties, 15-20 yards long and 5-10 yards wide are connected by a cement path with an inadequate, plexiglass roof. Two channels run along the sides of the cement path to direct the water out of their hovel that cannot be kept out by the roof. We were directed into a small, austere chapel with a simple altar in front of a crucifix flanked by a tabernacle. The floors were covered with large sections of carpet not affixed to the floor. On the wall opposite the tabernacle hung a picture of Mother Theresa over a relic of the saintly foundress of this Order. The lodgings could not have been much more meager. Yet, they were well kept and orderly. And there was not even the hint of a feeling of distress or despair in the place, only a profound peace.

When we were all seated, a Croatian sister entered and knelt silently in front of the tabernacle in prayer. After a few moments, she looked up smiling and asked Fr. Carola to lead the group in prayer, which he did so. The sister then told us a bit of her own experience with Mother Theresa and of the work of the Missionaries of Charity. She spoke in clear but simple English. Yet I was moved by this woman and her words. Perhaps it was the bubbling joy with which she spoke of the her foundress. This joy was so simple, because it came from the simplicity of her life. Materially, she had not but what she absolutly needed. For work, she served the poor. This was her simple life, and in that life there was incredible peace and joy. The small hostel in which the sisters lived was palpable with this serenity. The key moment for understanding that peace came at the very beginning. There is nothing objectively joyful about having almost nothing and doing difficult work all day, every day. I don't think any of us would object to that. The source of her joy can be found in those first few moments of silent prayer. That joy came from her incredible closeness to Christ. The simple life and service to the poor were a way to Him. This is something I could have learned in any chatechism class, but to see these principles in action and feel His presence truly radiating through them was inspiring. Part of our program includes the opportunity to do service work with they or another order of nuns. I plan to take part in that opportunity.


It appears I have made no progress in learning to write more succinctly. If I am to keep up, however, I will be forced to. Thank you again for reading.